A Guide to Devil's Island

Heaving on its axes and caught between the charcoalhad been the equivalent of removing the soul itself,
strata of sea below and cloud above at 1600, thesince the essence of will, direction, and action had
tiny Royal Princess penetrated no-man's land, thatbeen the propelling force behind every living human.
portion of ocean beyond the Caribbean Sea and itsA rocky, inclining path, leading from the single-boat
multitude of islands densely trafficked by cruise shipspier to the island's interior, yielded to a cobblestone,
unleashing tourists by the thousands on a daily basis,green moss-overgrown one and threaded its way
and the desolate morosity of the northeasternthrough dense palm trees, lush vegetation, and thick
quadrant of ocean off of South America where fewhumidity. Hack out a clearing in a malaria-ridden jungle,
ventured, destined for the pinpoint specks of theI had thought, and man will find a use for it, as the
Salvation Islands, the gem of which, Devil's Island, hadFrench had with the penal colony they had
"sparkled" with a penitentiary-inhabited populationestablished here.
which had vacated the landmass in 1953, leaving aThe island's sole museum, located half-way up the
desolate, although tropically lush lilly pad visited only apath, had been a dual-floored, wrought-iron balconied
few times per year by this very vessel. I had indeedcottage with an off-red and cream facade, shuttered
made a statement concerning the relativewindows, and a wooden shingled roof, and displayed
allocentricity of my travel, a decision whose steps Iisland-related artifacts, models, and diagrams.
urgently needed to re-examine in order toA walk to the path's summit had been met with a
re-establish how they had connected with each othertreed, green grass expanse of the island proper, and
and how they had somehow led to the current one.several penal colony-remnant structures, such as the
Perhaps the brain's logic of progression had failed totwo-story, balconied "Gendarmerie Poste des Iles" or
incorporate emotionalization in its deduction process."island police station," and the brick and block "Eglise
Yet, here I was, and the idea of turning back nowClassee," or church, which had been constructed in
had been less logical than the one which had led me1854. Its "Chapelle des Iles - espace de liberte" or
here."island chapel - area of freedom," sported a stone
Despite my internal hesitations, the ship externallyfloor; a wooden, slated roof; painted, wooden murals
plowed on at 15 knots...depicting prison life; an upper floor; and a steeple.
At 1300, the Royal Princess began its final approachThe island's many antiquated, decaying stone walls
to the Salvation Islands' Pilot Station, theirand pillars had provided testaments to the equally
almost-gray silhouettes, devoid of an appreciable,fading memory of this historical period, relics which
topographical distinctions, appearing ahead and to thehad been intentionally eradicated from the memories
right of the bow beneath the mostly cloud-drapedof the souls which had been enslaved by them.
sky. Reducing speed to little more than a crawl, itThe prominent, orange lighthouse hailed from 1934.
moved past St. Joseph, whose sandy perimeterThe small, crumbling, moss-overgrown children's
received periodic onslaughts of white, foamy surfcemetery, sporting cross-adorned graves, provided a
from the ocean, and embarked its local pilot at 1332,strong statement of injustice: the hot, humid, cruel,
who maneuvered it into a starboard approach to itsharsh, disease outcrop, coupled with the premature
anchorage off of Ile Royale's leeward side in thedeaths of those who had never made it to adulthood
thick, humid, almost oppressive air.and therefore had never begun to forge their life
Located on the northern coast of South Americapaths, had resulted in a final resting place, on the far
between Suriname and Brazil, French Guiana, whichside of the island not far from the ocean, which had
had been settled by the French during the 17thbeen isolated, crumbling, and seldom-visited. How,
century, is both an Overseas Department and anindeed, can one be remembered for his contributions
Overseas Region and constitutes the largest portionand achievements when he had never lived long
of the European Union outside of the Europeanenough to create them?
continent itself.The summit-perimeter path led round the cottages
Its three main geographical regions comprise theof the island's only "auberge," which featured stucco
coast, where most of its 209,000 population iswalls, shuttered windows, corrugated metal roofs,
concentrated; its dense, almost-impenetrable rainand small front porches.
forest, which gradually gains elevation as itAmid the decaying ruins, half-walls, and cells had been
approaches the Tumac-Humac Mountains on thethe "quartier des condamnes" which featured the
Brazilian border; and the two island groups off therusting, wrought-iron bases once used as beds and
coast, the Iles du Salut and the Ile de Connetable,the wall-connected bars to which the prisoners had
the latter a bird sanctuary.been nightly shackled. It had been in the narrow cells
The Barrage de Petit-Saut hydroelectric dam, locatedwith their small, single, high-arched windows covered
in the north, provides power, while fishing, goldwith wrought iron bars where the prisoners had
mining, timber, and eco-tourism are its predominantawaited the completion of their sentences or death,
economic activities. The Guiana Space Centre, inboth of which had served as "releases."
Kourou, employs 1,700. Principle transportationThe solitary confinement cells, which were located
includes the international airport in the suburbs ofacross the way and were equally small, offered no
Cayenne, the capital; the Degrad des Canneswindow and, hence, when their doors had been
Seaport; and an asphalt road from Cayenne to theclosed, were reduced to total blackness. Channels of
Brazilian border.human senses and perception had served no purpose
The Iles du Salut, or Salvation Islands, lie eight milesduring these times.
northeast of Kourou in the mid-Atlantic and compriseA weed-overgrown reservoir had been dug by the
Ile Royale, Ile St. Joseph, and Ile du Diable.prisoners, who had done so while braving the
Settled by French colonists seeking to escape theoppressive, breath-inhibiting humidity; torrential rains;
disease-ridden jungle of the low lands on thedisease-transmitting mosquitoes; and skin-tarring rays
continent proper in 1760, they subsequently servedof the equatorial sun, one teaspoon at a time-the
as outposts for ships too large to dock in Cayenne,only "tools" they had been given to complete the
and were initially known as "Iles du Diable" or "Devil'sproject.
Islands."A walk through the small hotel's lobby, which had
Ile Royale, the largest of the three and the only onebeen the prison warden's mess hall and now housed
still inhabited, had been the headquarters of thethe bar and a tiny gift shop, led to a tabled, outdoor
prison governor of the infamous 19th-century Frenchpatio where patrons eat the daily three-course
penal colony, which had housed more than 80,000"menu," quoted in euros, and enjoy views of the
prisoners in the 101 years between 1852 and 1953.actual, rock, palm-covered, 131-foot-high Devil's Island
Its current hotel had been the prison warden's messacross the water, which had served as the Emperor
hall.Napoleon III's decreed penitentiary.
The actual Ile du Diable, the smallest of the threeThe collective, three pinpoints known as "Devil's
and measuring 1,320-by-3,900 feet, accommodatedIsland," had, more than any other place, been a study
the leper colony. Among the most famous prisoners,of cruelty, torture, endurance, and survival inflicted
which had encompassed spies, political prisoners, andby humans to humans, which used the planet's
World War I deserters, Alfred Dreyfus, a Frenchexisting, natural elements to heighten it, and hence
Army Officer, had been falsely accused of treason,forced one to examine that fine, instantaneously
completing more than four years of his sentence onseverable line between life and death, the island's
the hot, humid, rain-deluged island from April 13, 1895conditions often inducing one to think "beyond" that
to June 5, 1899, and Henry Charriere, allegedly theline as the sometimes only viable alternative of
only prisoner to have escaped and to have lived to"escape."
tell the tale in the now-famous book, Papillon.As a study, it had offered two paradoxes over and
A June 17, 1938 decree abolished prisonerabove the one already contemplated upon arriving
transportation to French penal colonies, although ithere. The first of these involved past primitiveness
had taken another 15 years before the last one hadand future advancement. Its harsh, uninhabited
been removed.conditions, only now overgrown with lush flora,
St. Joseph, which grew in size as the ship approachedbeckons of the bowels of human
it, sported dense, tropical vegetation above its rockybehavior-criminality-yet its present tracking station
perimeter, in which several pink, wooden cottages,serving the Ariane Space Program whose launch pad,
almost choked by the flora, pierced the greenlocated 12 miles away on the French Guiana mainland,
canvas. Ile Royale, a short swim away, had beenhinted at its future, as it now plays a role in manned
thresholded by a small pier and several anchoredand unmanned missile and rocket launches which
sailboats. Civilization beyond the prison population hadtranscend the boundary of the planet itself, an
somehow established itself here and the boats hadexample of humans fostering advancement for the
provided its maritime entry.benefit of humans, and hence the diametric opposite
Grinding engines eight minutes later indicated theuse of the island for humankind's goals. The world is,
release of the starboard anchor with four shackles ataccording to Shakespeare, indeed a stage, and its
a 50-degree, 16-minute north latitude and 52-degree,people only players in whatever scenario it is deemed
35-minute west longitude position. Considerable timemost appropriate for its current cause. Time and
ensured before it had been determined that the seaintended goal are the parameters which had
state would permit safe tender operation, upondistinguished Devil's Island from past to future, from
which a voice over the ship's public address systempenal colony to space program, from planetary prison
ultimately pierced the safe, vacation-oriented delusionto planetary escape.
with the words, "Welcome to the penal colony ofThe second of the latently discovered paradoxes had
Devil's Island!" The miles covered through no-man'sbeen created by my ship itself, the Royal Princess,
land (or sea) from the Caribbean to the northeasternanchored in the distance and visible as I descended
edge of South America had deposited me here, andthe cobblestone path back to the pier. Appearing an
the "tourist route" had been well behind me now.infinitesimal speck in the vastness of ocean already
To put a foot on tiny Ile Royale, or "Royal Island,"sailed, it had, at the same time, served as the
which had been more popularly known as "Devil's"bridge" of connectivity, the floating path I had
Island," where 80,000 had, until 1953, been accused,walked to travel here, re-linking civilization. Because of
correctly or incorrectly, and imprisoned, and whoseDevil's Island's population scarcity, and its very
sole goal, amidst the brutal conditions, had been touncivilized historical use, it had, in essence, been
escape, had certainly constituted one of thecivilization-and hence seemed grossly out-of-place.
definitions of "exotic travel." That step both contrarilyAs I crossed the short distance from the island to
and paradoxically served to fulfill the opposite of thethe anchored vessel on the ship's tender filled with
prisoners' intentions and desires, of escape. Thethoughts, lessons, and paradoxes, of one thing I had
island, upon retrospect, had nothing to do with thebeen quite sure-namely, that I had performed a feat
desire and, hence direction of, travel to or from it,its 80,000 prisoners had only dreamt of-the rapid,
but instead personal will which, upon furthereffortless, unimpeded, willful departure from it,
examination, took on diametrically-opposed directionswithout a single hindrance or hesitation.
when the action had been self- or other-determined,Obstacles in life are, indeed, only insurmountable
the former pertaining to my circumstance to travelwhen another person's will is contrary to your
here and the latter to the prisoners' to flee it. Toown-the ultimate source of planetary conflict.
remove that core of the soul, that self-determination,